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British Guides make exciting first ascent in Norway

Martin Moran on the Voldafossen

British Mountain Guides, Tim Blakemore and Martin Moran, have just climbed a major new route in Norway

British Mountain Guides Tim Blakemore and Martin Moran have just climbed the huge Voldafossen (fossen is Norwegian for waterfall) near Aurland, Norway. This massive (450m) waterfall freezes for much of the winter but as far as they know has never received an ascent. Last year, Tim Blakemore (along with Mick Tighe) walked in with clients only to discover the crucial initial pillar had not touched down. This year Martin Moran paid for a boat trip to ascertain its condition and thus claimed this pitch as his own!

The route is VI on the Norwegian grading scale and has two major pitches of WI6/+ and many of WI V. A pre dawn start still meant the pair finished the route in darkness and they abseiled the entire length on ice threads.

'I've been visiting this area for 3 years now and this huge ice fall can be seen from our chalet's window. It had become something of a nemesis so it was great to get it done' said Tim.

This is Tim's 3rd visit to this area and there is still much potential for development. As well as climbing many routes with clients he also climbed the 'Hungryfossen WI 6' in Flamdalen along with Martin Welch for another first ascent.