Latest News from the BMG
Sandy (expedition leader) and his climbing partner Rick Allen were amongst the recipients of this year’s Piolet d’Or for conquering the Mazino Ridge of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan the world’s 9th highest mountain at 8125 metres.
Sandy Allan said, “It’s all very prestigious and great honour to be recognised by our peers, I am really excited”
“We did not know until the night of the awards if we would be given it or not as there were several days of interviews and questioning by the panel, on the night of the award ceremony in Courmayeur, Italy, the President Steven Venables announced that this year all six nominees were to be awarded!”
“The best thing of all, is that all the nominees got on so well together and there is no doubt that there were all amazing climbs , while ours was the only one in the death zone above 8000 meters I could never understand how the panel of judges could decide how one climb is better than the other. Really its mountaineering that won as it shows that there is no competition between the mountaineers, the camaraderie, climbing for passion with commitment and to take part in the adventure of climbing new ground is really what it’s all about!”
The winter test is the second of four examinations that must be passed to gain the IFMGA guides carnet. It is held annually in the Scottish Highlands and is considered by many to be the crux of the BMG training scheme. The test week was broken down into three elements the first day was an induction course for those applying to begin the training scheme then there was a 6 day exam incorporating a two day re-sit for some candidates from last year.
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‘Eyes Wide Shut’ is a big new mixed route on the unclimbed Northest face of Mont Rouge de Grouvetta climbed by British Guides Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker...
On the 16th November Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made what is thought to be the 2nd ascent of "Plein Sud" 900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+ up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses. After a 6 hour approach up snow covered moraine, wet slabs and a very crevassed Pra Sac Glacier, the climbers bivouacked at the base of the route...
Following the John Muir Trust public consultation process at the start of 2012, work is now complete on both the new Coire Leis cairn and the replacement Number 4 Gully cairn....
Three short lectures from well-known British Mountain Guides showcases the breadth of their travels and work - be inspired, and learn how you can make steps towards your own adventures. The Alpine Skills Workshops offer advice and basic hands on skills essential for climbing in the Alps.
Kendal Mountain Festival kicks off on the 15th November. It’s a feast of mountain action mixed with intense entertainment (aka beer) mixed with inspiration and advice. Naturally, British Mountain Guides are there.